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Trapper's Manual
Trapping Raccoon
Fairly easy to catch, raccoons are not particularly suspicious of a trap unless they
have had a previous close call. Trappers can take advantage of their curiosity, keen
sense of smell, and sense of security in their home territory. All sets should be
lightly concealed when the outline of the trap is conspicuous.
Distinctive tracks in the soft mud along streams and lakes are the most visible
giveaways to the raccoon's whereabouts. Droppings, deposited on branches, stumps,
logs, or the ground, are also obvious clues of raccoons in the area. Both raccoon and
mink are hard put to pass up a log extending into the water or across a stream.
Both consider it an open invitation to investigate. So, such a site would be an
excellent place for a trap.
Again, for raccoon, trap size is important. Most trappers choose the No. l 1/2
long-spring. Do not use anything larger than a No. 2. For drowning sets, a strong
No. 1 works quite well. A smaller trap usually grips the animal across the palm of
the paw, rather than high on the leg, and that reduces struggling.
Never attach the chain to a solid stake in a dry-land set. Lengthen the chain to
four or five feet, and attach a drag. An excellent choice is a green sapling about
five to six feet long and two to three inches in diameter. A sapling allows freedom
of movement before getting tangled in the brush and give the animal something
springy to pull against.
The 220 Conibear is sometimes used with bait in a cubby set or in an artificial
bank-hole set. Although humane, improper use of the Conibear and other similar
killer traps has brought about a great deal of bad publicity on trapping. Such
a trap gives no margin for error, and the trapper has no chance to release a
non-target species. Bait attracts not only raccoons, but also passing coonhounds,
hunting dogs, or family pets. So, the potential for an unwanted, tragic kill is
great. Therefore, it is up to YOU, the trapper, to guard against such an
occurrence. Prevention is the ONLY cure.
A Challenge
Obviously, it is in the best interests of trapping and all trappers to eliminate
any possibility of killing an unwanted species. And, therein lies a challenge
and an opportunity ... to exercise your knowledge of the raccoon and to study
the lay of the land to avoid an unwanted kill. One solution is to set aside
the killer-trap unless its use is necessary. If after careful analysis use
of a 220 is deemed best, use extreme care in choosing the site and placing
the trap. Determine where the animal's hunting forays are taking it, and select
a site that minimizes the chance of catching a dog. See the illustrations for
such a choice.
Trailing coonhounds lose the scent at the water's edge and search overland to
pick up the trail. So, an out-of-the-way depression in the stream bank would
be a good choice. There's another dog-proof option when using the 220 Conibear.
Nail an old bucket sideways on top of a four-foot fence post, on a post you set
yourself, or in the crotch of a tree. Place the rim of the pail near the edge
of the post, so the coon has access. Then, put the bait in the back of the
bucket and set the trap just inside the opening.
Selecting the proper bait can also help reduce the chances of killing a non-target
animal. For example, dogs can't seem to resist investigating, eating, or rolling
in any vile-smelling rot- ten meat. On the other hand, dogs and cats have little
interest in fruits or vegetables, which are attractive to coons.
Using care and restraint will leave the trapper with a sense of accomplishment for
a job well-done, rather than experiencing the sinking feeling of depression that
goes with finding a dead dog in a poorly placed or baited trap.
Raccoon Sets
Raccoons like to investigate any natural cavity ... exposed tree roots, holes in hollow
stumps, or fallen trees. In such locations, sets are commonly made with the bait at
the rear and the trap at the entrance. It is necessary to conceal the trap with rotten
wood, leaves, or anything else that occurs naturally in the area. If there is a wide
approach to the opening, strategically placed brush or rocks can help guide the
raccoon into the trap. The trapper has a wide choice of baits, since raccoons eat a vast
variety of foods - sweets like honey and candy, fish, crayfish, frogs, birds, and animal
flesh. During winter, corn or peanuts make good baits.
Another successful set involves digging a hole at the water's edge along an overhanging
creek bank. Place the trap at the entrance in two to three inches of water, and anchor it
with a tangle stake to insure quick drowning. The hole should be 10 to 15 inches across
and a foot or more deep. Again, bait may be used. See the illustration under mink.
An overhanging bank, brush pile, or other obstacles force the raccoon to enter the water
and make a good bet for a blind set (see illustration). Tracks along the bank indicate
where the coons enter and leave the water. Set the trap in shallow water at the point
of entry and stake it in deep water. No bait is necessary.
A dirt-hole set illustrated in the coyote section also works for raccoon. However, be
sure to use the correct size trap - coyote traps are too large and powerful for raccoon.
Artificial cubby sets are also standard for raccoon. Cubbies are small shelters built of
logs, rocks, or other available materials and covered with a brush pile, open at one end.
They can be built in advance and baited when the season opens. The trap, set at or just
inside the entrance, is lightly covered for concealment.
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